Japanese Food Tour
Page 2
Page 2
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The next day was Wednesday, April 12th (having lost a day on my way over), and I had a plan to visit a couple of
places that would perhaps have been quite crowded if I had gone on a weekend. I slept until about 10:00 the
next morning and woke up feeling good. I took my old, familiar train line, The Keihan Line, to Chushojima in
order to do a walking tour of the famous sake producing area of Fushimi in southern Kyoto. When I was living in
southern Kyoto I was incredibly ignorant as to the fame and history of the Fushimi area, which was a mere two
train stops from my own. I now regret never knowing enough to have gone to explore it at the time. I have since
learned quite a bit about sake and it's history and was excited to finally see this significant area for myself.
While not going into much detail, I will mention that sake is of great historical, cultural, social, religious and
aesthetic importance in Japan. I feel fortunate to have become increasingly exposed to the beauty and wonder
of sake over the past several years. Sake is not merely a drink or common elixir, it is a substance close to the
heart of most Japanese people, a substance which can assist it's thoughtful and contemplative consumer to
experience the intersection of terrestrial life and the realm of the Gods, and to comprehend the beauty and
expansive blessings of human life. No, this is not over stating the fact, and no, I'm not necessarily talking about
it's intoxicating qualities. I've been fortunate to have such experiences, those which many Japanese find
patently obvious, even banal.
This trip was to provide me with some unique opportunities to visit two of the most important sake producing
regions in Japan (Kyoto's Fushimi district and Kobe's Nada district). Both of these areas have long histories and
deep roots in the sake world, and both developed as prime sake areas due to famously pure and delicious local
waters. They are also areas which were particularly easy to ship in and out of in former times thanks to
conveniently placed rivers and waterways.
I began my walk from Chushojima toward the Chokenji Temple. This temple is home to the deity "Benzaiten,"
the God of rivers, and God of all water in India. This temple is also the dedicated home to the special Fushimi
spring water known as "Akasui," which is the source water of Fushimi's famous sake brewers. The Chokenji
Temple is also known for selling a unique and blatantly sexual amulet, which is a much sought after souvenir
among both Japanese and foreign tourists. Yes, I bought one.
My next stop was the nearby Gekkeikan Sake Museum. Although there are 33 separate sake breweries (kura)
in the Fushimi area, Gekkeikan is easily the largest and most well known. Many Americans will readily
recognize the name. Unfortunately, most Americans also probably associate Gekkeikan with the cheap,
"cooking" grade sake so many of us either have naively purchased to drink or have been unwittingly served
(usually hot in order to hide the undesirable taste) at many less than notable Japanese restaurants here in the
States. Fortunately, Gekkeikan also makes a large variety of very high quality sake as well. We just don't usually
see them much here in the US.
The museum tour was interesting, with displays showing traditional processes of brewing, traditional tools,
casks, and bottles. I actually found the most interesting displays to be those showing many of the old labels and
advertising posters. I also thought the many old photographs of seemingly important ceremonies involving the
sake were quite interesting as well. At the end of the tour was a very friendly and helpful man who supplies
guests with several samples of current brews. There is also a small shop within the museum where they sell
several sake, including some which are exclusively sold on site.
places that would perhaps have been quite crowded if I had gone on a weekend. I slept until about 10:00 the
next morning and woke up feeling good. I took my old, familiar train line, The Keihan Line, to Chushojima in
order to do a walking tour of the famous sake producing area of Fushimi in southern Kyoto. When I was living in
southern Kyoto I was incredibly ignorant as to the fame and history of the Fushimi area, which was a mere two
train stops from my own. I now regret never knowing enough to have gone to explore it at the time. I have since
learned quite a bit about sake and it's history and was excited to finally see this significant area for myself.
While not going into much detail, I will mention that sake is of great historical, cultural, social, religious and
aesthetic importance in Japan. I feel fortunate to have become increasingly exposed to the beauty and wonder
of sake over the past several years. Sake is not merely a drink or common elixir, it is a substance close to the
heart of most Japanese people, a substance which can assist it's thoughtful and contemplative consumer to
experience the intersection of terrestrial life and the realm of the Gods, and to comprehend the beauty and
expansive blessings of human life. No, this is not over stating the fact, and no, I'm not necessarily talking about
it's intoxicating qualities. I've been fortunate to have such experiences, those which many Japanese find
patently obvious, even banal.
This trip was to provide me with some unique opportunities to visit two of the most important sake producing
regions in Japan (Kyoto's Fushimi district and Kobe's Nada district). Both of these areas have long histories and
deep roots in the sake world, and both developed as prime sake areas due to famously pure and delicious local
waters. They are also areas which were particularly easy to ship in and out of in former times thanks to
conveniently placed rivers and waterways.
I began my walk from Chushojima toward the Chokenji Temple. This temple is home to the deity "Benzaiten,"
the God of rivers, and God of all water in India. This temple is also the dedicated home to the special Fushimi
spring water known as "Akasui," which is the source water of Fushimi's famous sake brewers. The Chokenji
Temple is also known for selling a unique and blatantly sexual amulet, which is a much sought after souvenir
among both Japanese and foreign tourists. Yes, I bought one.
My next stop was the nearby Gekkeikan Sake Museum. Although there are 33 separate sake breweries (kura)
in the Fushimi area, Gekkeikan is easily the largest and most well known. Many Americans will readily
recognize the name. Unfortunately, most Americans also probably associate Gekkeikan with the cheap,
"cooking" grade sake so many of us either have naively purchased to drink or have been unwittingly served
(usually hot in order to hide the undesirable taste) at many less than notable Japanese restaurants here in the
States. Fortunately, Gekkeikan also makes a large variety of very high quality sake as well. We just don't usually
see them much here in the US.
The museum tour was interesting, with displays showing traditional processes of brewing, traditional tools,
casks, and bottles. I actually found the most interesting displays to be those showing many of the old labels and
advertising posters. I also thought the many old photographs of seemingly important ceremonies involving the
sake were quite interesting as well. At the end of the tour was a very friendly and helpful man who supplies
guests with several samples of current brews. There is also a small shop within the museum where they sell
several sake, including some which are exclusively sold on site.
| Fallen cherry blossoms add beauty to the special "Akasui" waters of the Chokenji Temple |
The entrance to the Gekkeikan sake museum
By this time I was ready for lunch, and made my way to a well-known Fushimi Yaki-tori restaurant called "Torisei."
This particular restaurant is owned by the famous sake producer (and sake, miso, and salt retailer since 1688)
Yamamoto Honke. While they feature a famous chicken and rice dish, as well as a famous chicken soup, I can't
resist skewers when in a Yaki-tori restaurant. So, I ordered several skewers of grilled items that included chicken,
chicken liver, duck, quail, chicken skin, Shitake mushrooms, lotus root stuffed with chicken, asperagus/bacon,
and shishito peppers. This was all accompanied by a cold Asahi draft beer, miso soup, and an amazing Shinsei
sake (brewed on site). Just what the doctor ordered.
This particular restaurant is owned by the famous sake producer (and sake, miso, and salt retailer since 1688)
Yamamoto Honke. While they feature a famous chicken and rice dish, as well as a famous chicken soup, I can't
resist skewers when in a Yaki-tori restaurant. So, I ordered several skewers of grilled items that included chicken,
chicken liver, duck, quail, chicken skin, Shitake mushrooms, lotus root stuffed with chicken, asperagus/bacon,
and shishito peppers. This was all accompanied by a cold Asahi draft beer, miso soup, and an amazing Shinsei
sake (brewed on site). Just what the doctor ordered.
My Yaki-tori lunch at Torisei
After lunch I continued to walk around the immediate area. It was a beautiful day, with mostly sunny skies and
temperatures in the mid-60's. The distance to the next train station was just right for walking off my lunch, and
I reached it in about 20 minutes at an easy pace. As I walked I was once again struck with a sense of gratitude
for being in such a great place and time.
My next destination was the famous Fushimi Inari Shrine. I normally don't spend much time visiting shrines,
temples, and other such "tourist" spots because I've seen so many over the years that there remains little
interest. However, the Fushimi Inari Shrine is especially alluring in that it not only is intimately tied to the
sake traditions of the district but it is one of a handful of places in Japan that is so significant and famous that
even many foreigners would recognize it straightaway. The Fushimi Shrine on Mt. Inari is the first and central
shrine of the over 30,000 "Inari" shrines that exist throughout Japan. It is a shrine which was dedicated to the
spirits of rice and sake in the 8th century and is associated with the mystical figure of the fox. There are in fact
several shrines located within the Fushimi-Inari complex and they are easily recognized by the long, winding
paths lined with bright orange gates (tori) that lead up and down the mountain.
I approached the Fushimi-Inari complex knowing I was in for a somewhat challenging hike and I therefore left
my small shoulder bag and shopping bag with one of the priests at the base. The hike to the top is entirely
paved, mostly shaded, and even more beautiful than all of the famous photographs can show. However, most
people only hike part of the way up (usually to one of a couple of rest stops/viewing decks), and now I know
why. I was determined to hike to the top before starting out, but if I knew then what I know now I'm pretty
certain I wouldn't have been so ambitious. The areas at the top of the mountain are certainly the most beautiful
and haunting sections of the hike, but for a guy who had already walked several miles in the previous 40 hours,
is significantly out of shape and cursed with bad feet, it was perhaps not the best decision. I knew I was
pushing the limits of my legs and feet at the time but I didn't realize the full impact of what the hike had done
to me until the next morning. OUCH!
As I ended the hike the sun was preparing to set. The scene was beautiful and eerie. Unfortunately I was
distracted by an extraordinary hunger. However, as I approached the train station I saw a sight which was like
seeing manna falling from heaven; that of a tako-yaki vendor. Tako-yaki are balls of battered octopus topped
with a sweet or spicy "barbecue" sauce, seaweed flakes, bonito shavings, and a bit of mayonnaise. It is a favorite
of commuters who find themselves in need of a hearty snack to hold them over until they can get home and
prepare a proper dinner. It is also a favorite of foreigners. My stomach was screaming for me to buy the large
portion, but knowing I had plans for a particular dinner that night kept me to the small one. Within about 3
minutes of breaking them out back in my hotel room they were no longer. The only notation in my little
travel-notebook from this time reads: "Tired!!!" and again a couple of hours later, "Tired!!!"
temperatures in the mid-60's. The distance to the next train station was just right for walking off my lunch, and
I reached it in about 20 minutes at an easy pace. As I walked I was once again struck with a sense of gratitude
for being in such a great place and time.
My next destination was the famous Fushimi Inari Shrine. I normally don't spend much time visiting shrines,
temples, and other such "tourist" spots because I've seen so many over the years that there remains little
interest. However, the Fushimi Inari Shrine is especially alluring in that it not only is intimately tied to the
sake traditions of the district but it is one of a handful of places in Japan that is so significant and famous that
even many foreigners would recognize it straightaway. The Fushimi Shrine on Mt. Inari is the first and central
shrine of the over 30,000 "Inari" shrines that exist throughout Japan. It is a shrine which was dedicated to the
spirits of rice and sake in the 8th century and is associated with the mystical figure of the fox. There are in fact
several shrines located within the Fushimi-Inari complex and they are easily recognized by the long, winding
paths lined with bright orange gates (tori) that lead up and down the mountain.
I approached the Fushimi-Inari complex knowing I was in for a somewhat challenging hike and I therefore left
my small shoulder bag and shopping bag with one of the priests at the base. The hike to the top is entirely
paved, mostly shaded, and even more beautiful than all of the famous photographs can show. However, most
people only hike part of the way up (usually to one of a couple of rest stops/viewing decks), and now I know
why. I was determined to hike to the top before starting out, but if I knew then what I know now I'm pretty
certain I wouldn't have been so ambitious. The areas at the top of the mountain are certainly the most beautiful
and haunting sections of the hike, but for a guy who had already walked several miles in the previous 40 hours,
is significantly out of shape and cursed with bad feet, it was perhaps not the best decision. I knew I was
pushing the limits of my legs and feet at the time but I didn't realize the full impact of what the hike had done
to me until the next morning. OUCH!
As I ended the hike the sun was preparing to set. The scene was beautiful and eerie. Unfortunately I was
distracted by an extraordinary hunger. However, as I approached the train station I saw a sight which was like
seeing manna falling from heaven; that of a tako-yaki vendor. Tako-yaki are balls of battered octopus topped
with a sweet or spicy "barbecue" sauce, seaweed flakes, bonito shavings, and a bit of mayonnaise. It is a favorite
of commuters who find themselves in need of a hearty snack to hold them over until they can get home and
prepare a proper dinner. It is also a favorite of foreigners. My stomach was screaming for me to buy the large
portion, but knowing I had plans for a particular dinner that night kept me to the small one. Within about 3
minutes of breaking them out back in my hotel room they were no longer. The only notation in my little
travel-notebook from this time reads: "Tired!!!" and again a couple of hours later, "Tired!!!"
The gates go on and on and on!
| Hiking beneath the famous gates of Fushimi-Inari |
| Descending the mountain just beyond the summit. A truly magical section of the trail. |
| A section of one of the many smaller shrines along the way displays an image of an Inari fox |
Having showered and rested my legs a bit I went off to have dinner at a nearby restaurant called Takasebune.
The word "Takasebune" refers to the boats which would float the nearby Takasegawa canal carrying goods from
Kyoto to Osaka in the days before modern trains and streetcars. The restaurant is full of history, having been
opened originally by the current proprietor's father and dedicated to the memory of his grandfather's
occupation as a boatman on the Takasegawa canal. Takasebune is one of the best places to get a quality Kyoto
style tempura "tei-shoku," a table d'hote meal, which typically includes miso soup, rice, pickles, fish (both raw
and grilled), along with crisply batter-fried vegetable and seafood items. Located just behind the big Hankyu
Department Store at Shijo Kawaramachi-dori, locals often know it as "The Oar" due to a large riverboat oar that
is placed outside it's entrance to indicate that they are open for business.
The place was just as I had expected, small but comfortable, dark but not dreary or excessively "moody."
Although there are private tatami mat rooms both in back and upstairs I was fortunate enough to get a seat at
the small counter in the front from which you can watch all of the activities of the chef and servers (the staff is a
total of 3 people). In fact, I had the counter to myself throughout my meal despite the rest of the rooms being
quite busy. I ordered the "Yorokobi" Chef's Choice from a selection of 3 set meals. This particular menu started
in the distinctly Kyoto tradition with several very small appetizers of both fish and vegetable varieties. These
were followed by a unique type of gelatinous soup containing wasabi (Japanese horse radish) and wild greens.
Chawamushi (a type of seafood custard) and broiled tuna followed that. Then came the tempura items;
eggplant, shiso leaf, pumpkin, shrimp, and white fish. All of this was accompanied by a bottle of Kirin Lager. I
had to pass on the rice-miso soup and green tea at the end because I was absolutely stuffed!
In addition to the good food, I really enjoyed the wonderfully calm atmosphere of Takasebune. The staff went
about their work calmly and efficiently with hardly ever more than a word or two between themselves required
to coordinate any task. I sat quietly and ate at a very leisurely pace. The chef (Okajima Hideo) had the Hanshin
Tigers baseball game quietly playing on the radio as he worked. I mentioned to him that I am also a fan of the
Tigers, so we had fun occasionally commenting about the game to one another. It turned out to be the perfect
setting in which to end another great day. I walked about a block back to my hotel and was fast asleep by 9:00.
The word "Takasebune" refers to the boats which would float the nearby Takasegawa canal carrying goods from
Kyoto to Osaka in the days before modern trains and streetcars. The restaurant is full of history, having been
opened originally by the current proprietor's father and dedicated to the memory of his grandfather's
occupation as a boatman on the Takasegawa canal. Takasebune is one of the best places to get a quality Kyoto
style tempura "tei-shoku," a table d'hote meal, which typically includes miso soup, rice, pickles, fish (both raw
and grilled), along with crisply batter-fried vegetable and seafood items. Located just behind the big Hankyu
Department Store at Shijo Kawaramachi-dori, locals often know it as "The Oar" due to a large riverboat oar that
is placed outside it's entrance to indicate that they are open for business.
The place was just as I had expected, small but comfortable, dark but not dreary or excessively "moody."
Although there are private tatami mat rooms both in back and upstairs I was fortunate enough to get a seat at
the small counter in the front from which you can watch all of the activities of the chef and servers (the staff is a
total of 3 people). In fact, I had the counter to myself throughout my meal despite the rest of the rooms being
quite busy. I ordered the "Yorokobi" Chef's Choice from a selection of 3 set meals. This particular menu started
in the distinctly Kyoto tradition with several very small appetizers of both fish and vegetable varieties. These
were followed by a unique type of gelatinous soup containing wasabi (Japanese horse radish) and wild greens.
Chawamushi (a type of seafood custard) and broiled tuna followed that. Then came the tempura items;
eggplant, shiso leaf, pumpkin, shrimp, and white fish. All of this was accompanied by a bottle of Kirin Lager. I
had to pass on the rice-miso soup and green tea at the end because I was absolutely stuffed!
In addition to the good food, I really enjoyed the wonderfully calm atmosphere of Takasebune. The staff went
about their work calmly and efficiently with hardly ever more than a word or two between themselves required
to coordinate any task. I sat quietly and ate at a very leisurely pace. The chef (Okajima Hideo) had the Hanshin
Tigers baseball game quietly playing on the radio as he worked. I mentioned to him that I am also a fan of the
Tigers, so we had fun occasionally commenting about the game to one another. It turned out to be the perfect
setting in which to end another great day. I walked about a block back to my hotel and was fast asleep by 9:00.
Takasebune appetizers
| Takasebune tempura dish with chawamushi in the bowl on the left |
Because I had gone to bed so early the night before, I found myself wide awake by 4:00am the next morning. I
organized my bags and read a bit of my book. At 6:00 I called Tee from the pay phone in the lobby of the hotel.
We only spoke briefly, but it was good to touch base and know all was going well. I then headed out to walk
around the neighborhood of Gion and take a few photos in the morning light.
Gion is one of the most famous and culturally significant areas in all of Japan. Known as the heart of Japanese
traditional nightlife for centuries, it is also the home to almost all of the true remaining geisha in Japan
(approx. 35 to 50). The neighborhood is home to both very traditional style businesses as well as modern
"snack" bars, "live" (music) clubs, and retail shops. It also remains a popular tourist destination due to it's
history, traditional architecture, and large number of arts and crafts shops. I've known the area for many years
but never tire of spending time there. While most people know Gion as the hustling, bustling shopping district
during the day or visit the even more lively and energetic hot spot during the main social hours of the evening
and nighttime, I was in Gion on this particular morning when it was early enough to experience it in a very
unique but equally satisfying way. Very few people were about, there was a light rain, the temperature was
crisp but comfortable, and it was as quiet as the center of any Japanese city could ever be expected to be. I
walked extensively (though my legs were telling me not to) throughout the neighborhood taking a few pictures,
but mostly just taking in the wondrous atmosphere of the area and the morning.
organized my bags and read a bit of my book. At 6:00 I called Tee from the pay phone in the lobby of the hotel.
We only spoke briefly, but it was good to touch base and know all was going well. I then headed out to walk
around the neighborhood of Gion and take a few photos in the morning light.
Gion is one of the most famous and culturally significant areas in all of Japan. Known as the heart of Japanese
traditional nightlife for centuries, it is also the home to almost all of the true remaining geisha in Japan
(approx. 35 to 50). The neighborhood is home to both very traditional style businesses as well as modern
"snack" bars, "live" (music) clubs, and retail shops. It also remains a popular tourist destination due to it's
history, traditional architecture, and large number of arts and crafts shops. I've known the area for many years
but never tire of spending time there. While most people know Gion as the hustling, bustling shopping district
during the day or visit the even more lively and energetic hot spot during the main social hours of the evening
and nighttime, I was in Gion on this particular morning when it was early enough to experience it in a very
unique but equally satisfying way. Very few people were about, there was a light rain, the temperature was
crisp but comfortable, and it was as quiet as the center of any Japanese city could ever be expected to be. I
walked extensively (though my legs were telling me not to) throughout the neighborhood taking a few pictures,
but mostly just taking in the wondrous atmosphere of the area and the morning.
Sitting on the Shirakawa Bridge in Gion
Gion side street
| Traditional inns and restaurants up against the Shirakawa river Gion |
It was mid-morning by the time I had checked out of my hotel and boarded the train to Osaka (about a 40 min.
trip). Again I rode my old, regular line, Keihan, and by doing so passed through several stations that are familiar
and nostalgic for me. I passed through Yodo where Tee used to live in a Communist run dorm room. We passed
through Yawata station with my old apartment clearly visible only a couple hundred feet to the west of the
platform (the door looked weathered and beaten). We passed Hashimoto where my friends James (Jamie) and his
old girlfriend Jill used to live. We passed Makino station, from where most students attending my old university
walk to school. We also made a brief stop in Neyagawa, where I spent several months living with a wonderful
elderly Japanese couple while attending school.
I made my way to the Hilton Osaka in Umeda and dropped my bags with the bellman as it was still too early to
check in. I then went to withdraw some cash at an international ATM located in the basement of the Hankyu
Umeda station. I still had several minutes before the Kinokuniya bookstore opened, and very fortunately found a
place to sit down on some public benches just across the street from the station. My notes from this time: "Sooo
tired! My feet! Ouch! Can't check in until 2pm."
Once the bookstore opened I spent time browsing the English language section as well as the art and
photography section. They didn't have any of the specific art books I had hoped to find but I did end up buying
two books of photographs. I then went across the street to the Hanshin Department Store to purchase some gear
from their Hanshin Tigers department. I was successful in buying a baseball cap and new tee-shirt for myself as
well as a new (bigger) Hanshin Tigers jersey for Henry.
I added my shopping bags to my things already being held by the bellman (the hotel being right next door to the
Hanshin Dept. Store) and took a cab to the heart of Osaka's culinary universe, Dotomburi. Osaka is known as a
major food and drink city, and people make eating and drinking a priority over most all else. Osaka also
naturally has cuisine that is indigenous. The most well known of these is probably okonomiyaki. Almost any
description of okonomiyaki (meaning: cook what you like) is inherently misleading, but the dish is basically a
combination of various meat, (sometimes) seafood, vegetables (usually shredded cabbage), and (often) noodles
mixed with a pancake-like batter and grilled on a flat iron grill. It is then topped much like tako-yaki (also
originally an Osaka dish) with a sweet type of barbecue-like sauce, bonito shavings, mayonnaise, and seaweed
flakes. It is not only incredibly delicious, but hearty and very affordable. Again, like tako-yaki, it is one of those
dishes that even most steak-and-potatoes Americans fall for.
Visiting Osaka and not eating okonomiyaki would be like visiting Hawaii and not going to the beach. So, once in
Dotomburi I headed directly to my favorite okonomiyaki restaurant, Chibo (funny enough there is a Chibo in
Hawaii at the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center in Waikiki). The basement floor is normally where I used to like
to sit because it has a nice view of the river, but it was undergoing renovations so I took the elevator to the top. I
ordered the "Chibo" okonomiyaki, which is basically "the works." The food was great as always and the staff very
friendly.
trip). Again I rode my old, regular line, Keihan, and by doing so passed through several stations that are familiar
and nostalgic for me. I passed through Yodo where Tee used to live in a Communist run dorm room. We passed
through Yawata station with my old apartment clearly visible only a couple hundred feet to the west of the
platform (the door looked weathered and beaten). We passed Hashimoto where my friends James (Jamie) and his
old girlfriend Jill used to live. We passed Makino station, from where most students attending my old university
walk to school. We also made a brief stop in Neyagawa, where I spent several months living with a wonderful
elderly Japanese couple while attending school.
I made my way to the Hilton Osaka in Umeda and dropped my bags with the bellman as it was still too early to
check in. I then went to withdraw some cash at an international ATM located in the basement of the Hankyu
Umeda station. I still had several minutes before the Kinokuniya bookstore opened, and very fortunately found a
place to sit down on some public benches just across the street from the station. My notes from this time: "Sooo
tired! My feet! Ouch! Can't check in until 2pm."
Once the bookstore opened I spent time browsing the English language section as well as the art and
photography section. They didn't have any of the specific art books I had hoped to find but I did end up buying
two books of photographs. I then went across the street to the Hanshin Department Store to purchase some gear
from their Hanshin Tigers department. I was successful in buying a baseball cap and new tee-shirt for myself as
well as a new (bigger) Hanshin Tigers jersey for Henry.
I added my shopping bags to my things already being held by the bellman (the hotel being right next door to the
Hanshin Dept. Store) and took a cab to the heart of Osaka's culinary universe, Dotomburi. Osaka is known as a
major food and drink city, and people make eating and drinking a priority over most all else. Osaka also
naturally has cuisine that is indigenous. The most well known of these is probably okonomiyaki. Almost any
description of okonomiyaki (meaning: cook what you like) is inherently misleading, but the dish is basically a
combination of various meat, (sometimes) seafood, vegetables (usually shredded cabbage), and (often) noodles
mixed with a pancake-like batter and grilled on a flat iron grill. It is then topped much like tako-yaki (also
originally an Osaka dish) with a sweet type of barbecue-like sauce, bonito shavings, mayonnaise, and seaweed
flakes. It is not only incredibly delicious, but hearty and very affordable. Again, like tako-yaki, it is one of those
dishes that even most steak-and-potatoes Americans fall for.
Visiting Osaka and not eating okonomiyaki would be like visiting Hawaii and not going to the beach. So, once in
Dotomburi I headed directly to my favorite okonomiyaki restaurant, Chibo (funny enough there is a Chibo in
Hawaii at the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center in Waikiki). The basement floor is normally where I used to like
to sit because it has a nice view of the river, but it was undergoing renovations so I took the elevator to the top. I
ordered the "Chibo" okonomiyaki, which is basically "the works." The food was great as always and the staff very
friendly.
After leaving Chibo I took my turn posing for a picture with the "Kuidaore Ningyo." I'm a bit embarrassed to say,
but despite having spent a many number of nights eating and drinking in the Dotomburi area, and despite
having walked by the Kuidaore Ningyo dozens of times over the years, it took Anthony Bourdain, the famous
chef, author, and traveler to educate me on just what the Kuidaore Ningyo is all about. Only about a week
before leaving for Japan I happened upon Anthony Bourdain's show "No Reservations" on the Travel Channel
when he did an entire hour-long show on the food and drink of Osaka. (Beautiful!) As I watched I kept hearing
him say something in Japanese, but with his heavy American (New York) accent I wasn't exactly how it might
be spelled. I managed to look it up in my Japanese dictionary and I burst out laughing. The word was
"kuidaore," defined by my dictionary as: "ruin (dissipate) one's fortune by extravagance in food." As Tee later
said; only the Japanese would have a word for that! Anyway, as the program continued I learned that it is
tradition for those visiting Osaka (I'm talking mostly of Japanese visitors) to pose for a picture with the Kuidaore
Ningyo, or Kuidaore "Doll" after gorging themselves on the food and drink of the Dotomburi district. The "doll"
is a truly strange creation, and more than a bit silly looking (see the picture below), and Anthony Bourdain
refused to pose with it saying "clowns freak me out." Well, silly or not, now that I had been educated in the
ways of the Kuidaore Ningyo I felt obligated to pose for a photo after my very satisfying okonomiyaki lunch.
but despite having spent a many number of nights eating and drinking in the Dotomburi area, and despite
having walked by the Kuidaore Ningyo dozens of times over the years, it took Anthony Bourdain, the famous
chef, author, and traveler to educate me on just what the Kuidaore Ningyo is all about. Only about a week
before leaving for Japan I happened upon Anthony Bourdain's show "No Reservations" on the Travel Channel
when he did an entire hour-long show on the food and drink of Osaka. (Beautiful!) As I watched I kept hearing
him say something in Japanese, but with his heavy American (New York) accent I wasn't exactly how it might
be spelled. I managed to look it up in my Japanese dictionary and I burst out laughing. The word was
"kuidaore," defined by my dictionary as: "ruin (dissipate) one's fortune by extravagance in food." As Tee later
said; only the Japanese would have a word for that! Anyway, as the program continued I learned that it is
tradition for those visiting Osaka (I'm talking mostly of Japanese visitors) to pose for a picture with the Kuidaore
Ningyo, or Kuidaore "Doll" after gorging themselves on the food and drink of the Dotomburi district. The "doll"
is a truly strange creation, and more than a bit silly looking (see the picture below), and Anthony Bourdain
refused to pose with it saying "clowns freak me out." Well, silly or not, now that I had been educated in the
ways of the Kuidaore Ningyo I felt obligated to pose for a photo after my very satisfying okonomiyaki lunch.
| My okonomiyaki at Chibo |
With the Kuidaore Ningyo
My next mission was to find out how to secure a ticket for that night's Hanshin Tigers game at Koshien Stadium.
I had asked a couple of staff members at the Hilton but they were completely unhelpful. I did get advice from a
guy at the Hanshin Department store who told me I may have a chance if I checked with the ticket resellers
counter in the basement of the Hanshin Umeda train station. So that's were I went. Unfortunately they told me
they only sold tickets up until two days prior to the game, but if I were to go to the ballpark a couple of hours
before game time I had a chance to pick up any tickets that might be left. I went and checked into my room and
was pleased to find it was quite spacious and had a fabulous view of the north-west section of the city (imagine
Scarlet Johanson staring out of her hotel window in "Lost in Translation").
I had asked a couple of staff members at the Hilton but they were completely unhelpful. I did get advice from a
guy at the Hanshin Department store who told me I may have a chance if I checked with the ticket resellers
counter in the basement of the Hanshin Umeda train station. So that's were I went. Unfortunately they told me
they only sold tickets up until two days prior to the game, but if I were to go to the ballpark a couple of hours
before game time I had a chance to pick up any tickets that might be left. I went and checked into my room and
was pleased to find it was quite spacious and had a fabulous view of the north-west section of the city (imagine
Scarlet Johanson staring out of her hotel window in "Lost in Translation").
View from my room at the Hilton Osaka
Although I had arrived at the ticket window outside the entrance to Koshien Stadium a half hour before tickets
went on sale, and two hours before game time, I was only about 30th in line for the remaining bleacher seats.
No one knows before the ticket window opens how many tickets are left, so I was sweating it a bit knowing this
was my one chance on this trip to see my favorite team. But any fears were quickly allayed when I was handed
my ticket within seconds of the ticket window opening. I now found myself with two hours to kill before the start
of the game. That wasn't a problem though because of the several things I wanted to see even before entering
the park.
I first wanted to step back from the entrance and snap a couple of photos of this legendary structure. While the
Hanshin Tigers are probably best thought of as holding a similar status in Japan as the Boston Red Sox do in
the US; perennial underdogs with a large and rabid fan base, Koshien Stadium as a sporting venue can rightly
be compared to Fenway Park, Wrigley Field, and Yankee Stadium all rolled into one. It's not only the oldest
ballpark in the Japanese big leagues, but is the site for the biggest of all annual sporting events in Japan, the
national high school baseball championships. Realistically it should have been replaced/rebuilt years ago, but
the love for this stadium is so deep that they cannot yet bare to follow through with actually doing it.
A couple of other points of interest around the stadium that I made sure to check out were the Babe Ruth
placard at the front entrance which commemorates when Babe Ruth played at Koshien in 1934 as well as the
Hanshin Tigers Museum located on the back of the stadium.
went on sale, and two hours before game time, I was only about 30th in line for the remaining bleacher seats.
No one knows before the ticket window opens how many tickets are left, so I was sweating it a bit knowing this
was my one chance on this trip to see my favorite team. But any fears were quickly allayed when I was handed
my ticket within seconds of the ticket window opening. I now found myself with two hours to kill before the start
of the game. That wasn't a problem though because of the several things I wanted to see even before entering
the park.
I first wanted to step back from the entrance and snap a couple of photos of this legendary structure. While the
Hanshin Tigers are probably best thought of as holding a similar status in Japan as the Boston Red Sox do in
the US; perennial underdogs with a large and rabid fan base, Koshien Stadium as a sporting venue can rightly
be compared to Fenway Park, Wrigley Field, and Yankee Stadium all rolled into one. It's not only the oldest
ballpark in the Japanese big leagues, but is the site for the biggest of all annual sporting events in Japan, the
national high school baseball championships. Realistically it should have been replaced/rebuilt years ago, but
the love for this stadium is so deep that they cannot yet bare to follow through with actually doing it.
A couple of other points of interest around the stadium that I made sure to check out were the Babe Ruth
placard at the front entrance which commemorates when Babe Ruth played at Koshien in 1934 as well as the
Hanshin Tigers Museum located on the back of the stadium.
Koshien Stadium front entrance
| Babe Ruth placard at Koshien Stadium |
After my leisurely walk around the outside of Koshien I went over to where the various souvenir vendors were
actively selling all manner of hats, jerseys, towels, and trinkets to the crowds exiting the train station for the
ballgame. I bought a few small items for the kids and then ducked into a casual, makeshift restaurant which
had a tempting couple of vats of steaming oden strategically placed at it's entrance. Oden is another type of
Japanese cuisine that simply consists of various items such as boiled eggs, tofu, and fishcake boiled for hours
in a subtle broth, which is then served alongside a dollop of hot mustard. It is very affordable and usually
associated with blue collar/working man's culture. It seemed a perfect fit to eat oden outside of Koshien
because of the Hanshin Tigers image as a working man's team. It brought back memories of a little oden place I
used to visit occasionally in Neyagawa when a student. It was always a proudly unsophisticated place with a
somewhat rough crowd of mostly construction workers, but was always a great respite from the often tedious
sophistication that ironically is utterly "common" in Japan.
actively selling all manner of hats, jerseys, towels, and trinkets to the crowds exiting the train station for the
ballgame. I bought a few small items for the kids and then ducked into a casual, makeshift restaurant which
had a tempting couple of vats of steaming oden strategically placed at it's entrance. Oden is another type of
Japanese cuisine that simply consists of various items such as boiled eggs, tofu, and fishcake boiled for hours
in a subtle broth, which is then served alongside a dollop of hot mustard. It is very affordable and usually
associated with blue collar/working man's culture. It seemed a perfect fit to eat oden outside of Koshien
because of the Hanshin Tigers image as a working man's team. It brought back memories of a little oden place I
used to visit occasionally in Neyagawa when a student. It was always a proudly unsophisticated place with a
somewhat rough crowd of mostly construction workers, but was always a great respite from the often tedious
sophistication that ironically is utterly "common" in Japan.
| Souvenir stands between the ballpark and the train station |
My pre-game oden